Leaving Footprints in the Soil and the Sand

August 13 – 16, 2019.

We spent four days exploring Santiago, Finisterre, Cabo Finisterre and traveling to Barcelona.
Finisterre is known as “the end of the world” as peregrinos of old would continue walking from Santiago to the sea. It was customary to select a scalloped shell from the beach and return home with it as proof the journey had been completed. That is why it is, along with the yellow arrow we followed for countless miles, a special symbol of the Camino de Santiago.
Unfortunately for us, the cathedral in Santiago is under immense renovations in anticipation of the Holy Year in 2021 and thus touring areas are very limited.
We didn’t hike to Finisterre but did hike from our albergue there to the lighthouse and the final marker of the Camino. We even were blessed to see three other Camino friends we thought for sure were already journeying home. The Camino has been the most challenging experience I’ve ever loved. Be blessed Y’all!

August 12, 2019

My body is still on Camino time. This morning was an opportunity to sleep in without concern for having to cover a full day of hiking and I’m wide awake at 6:15. 🤷‍♀️ Vidal on the other hand is sleeping peacefully. While I entertain the thought of waking him so we can get the day started I know that would be a poor decision. 😁
First order of business is to locate the pilgrim’s office and obtain our Compostela. Our certificates of completion will have our start date and location, our end date, and our names written in Latin. I had read that if one walks the Camino in memory of a loved one their name could also be added. I knew Vidal’s dad had been very heavy on his heart this entire journey and emotions had spilled over on more than one occasion. I mentioned to him that he should ask about having his dad included with his own. We were not attended by the same staff member and I was several spots over from him when it was our turn to produce our credencial. I completed my paperwork and began walking toward him just as he was wrapping up his own. The gentle tears rolling down his cheeks told a greater story than his words will ever be able to convey.
Attending the pilgrim’s mass immediately after was a special way to reflect on our journey of many blessings.
We walked the cobbled streets exploring and people watching; so many faces, so many languages, all brought together by one purpose. By happenstance I saw a woman I thought I recognized. I turned to Vidal to ask him if he thought so too and he was already smiling and heading in her direction. It is Anne from California whom we met on our very first day and walked with to Pamplona. What a wonderful coincidence to see someone at the end of this pilgrimage that we met on day one. God’s timing is perfect.
This is the day the Lord has made and we will rejoice in it. Be blessed y’all!

August 11, 2019

Our last day on the Camino began just as our first one 41 days ago, with heavy fog. We contemplated at how appropriate it seemed; our views were hidden and most likely for a purpose. Occasionally, we are unable to see what lies before us because of the fog, darkness, or hardships we are enduring. However, we take one step forward at a time in faith knowing two things. One, if we don’t continue progressing nothing will change and two, nothing lasts forever…..except up hills and down hills in the Galacian region of Spain. 😃
We ambled along as neither of us was ready for this to end. This journey has given us so much time to quietly explore our thoughts. We’ve lamented our losses, given thanks for grace, mercy, and forgiveness bestowed upon us, lifted names and events in petition, praised His wonders of beauty on the earth and in the people we’ve met. We just weren’t ready for this to end.
As we entered the old city of Santiago and approached the outer edges of the cathedral plaza we began to hear the soulful sounds of bagpipes. Before descending the final steps we paused to take a deep breath. Each step downward a replay of our undertaking. 500 miles in 41 days…..each footprint a memory eternally etched in our hearts. Our backpacks holding everything we’ve needed on this journey, revealing we really don’t need all the “stuff” in our lives we think are necessary. Aching muscles and sore feet landing on the cobblestone stairway reminding us we are so much stronger than we imagined. Our final stair step is also the first into the plaza. I continue following Vidal as we seek an open space among the many peregrinos who have arrived before us. I love the familiar view of his backpack ahead of me, always leading, guiding, protecting. He finally turns to face me and the tears streaming down his face match mine. His embrace encompasses me; the reality of what we’ve just completed is overwhelming. Our first view of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela is breathtaking.
We sit and take in this moment. Joyous laughter, tears, singing, cheers of “felicidades” ring out. We are all here in celebration of personal journeys undertaken step by step or pedal by pedal as some have cycled this path from beginning to end.
Rolling thunder echoes nearby indicating the predicted rain is on its way. We must look for a place to stay. True to form we haven’t made reservations. God’s grace and Vidal’s intuitiveness team up once again for the score. We will be staying at the albergue “The Last Stamp/El Ultimo Sello” in a private room. The irony is not lost on me.
We decide to wait until tomorrow to collect our Compostela so we can attend the pilgrim’s mass at noon as well. As we wander the old city streets trying to decide where to have our celebratory dinner we run into Yan! Huge hugs and smiles abound as we realize she arrived only hours before us. Our dinner selection this evening is exactly as our first one just over a month ago – El Menu de Peregrino (the pilgrim’s meal). Cheers and be blessed y’all!

August 9 – 10, 2019

It’s funny how you can miss someone you’ve only met a few days prior. We didn’t see Bob and Bev today but we spoke of them often. We’ve also had Yan on our minds as we haven’t seen her in two days. We did cross paths with Diego, his daughter, Martina and her brother, Marco again; it’s always so great to see these two kids with their dad.
We hiked in a fine mist for the third day and it definitely makes for milder temperatures. It’s entertaining to participate in and witness the on again off again of pack covers and rain jackets. We’re like ants on a mission. This evening we tried pulpo a la gallaga (octopus) for the first time and it was actually very tasty. It was grilled and had a texture much like crab legs.
August 10 – Cloudy skies greeted us this morning. After a hearty breakfast we begin our second to the last day of hiking. A couple of hours into the day we spot Kelly. We last saw her when we walked to Cruz de Ferro together ten days ago. The miles pass quickly as we catch up with each other’s adventures.
A special bonus was receiving another handmade sello. This time from Jesus who used flower petals and rosemary to make a small angel then added a wax seal to complete his handiwork.
The albergue is filled with anticipation tonight as tomorrow’s trek will lead us into Santiago. For many of us it will be the last time we see one another. For others, like us, it will be the completion of a journey we were unsure we would be able to complete. Each of us will experience our own moment of completion. It promises to be an amazing day.

August 7 – 8, 2019

August 7 – Today it drizzled on and off all day. It is only the second day in the last thirty-seven that we’ve hiked in wet weather. The clouds and fog allowed for very comfortable temperatures. Today’s 13 miles slipped by quickly as we are energized by children’s laughter, parents’ singing, and meeting new friends. The number of families walking with little ones, some in strollers, has doubled. It is such a privilege to witness these parents planting the seeds of adventure in their kid’s hearts. We know Elias and Andrea hold a lifetime of memories of our travels with them at the same age as these young pilgrims.
August 8 – This morning we ambled out of our room at 8 a.m., went downstairs for breakfast and took our first steps on the trail at 9 a.m. This is the latest we have ever started our day and I admit I held a bit of angst as we had a 15-mile trek before us. I also have to admit that we had an incredible night of rest. Vidal’s laid back attitude continues to amaze me. He’s not concerned at all about today’s long day or that we continue to play each day by ear and have made no reservations for the evening. His method has not failed us yet.
Yesterday we met Bob and Bev from California. They are here visiting with and walking alongside their daughter, son-in- law, grandson, and granddaughter. Their daughter, Veronica came to Spain to attend college thirteen years ago and never returned to the states. She met her husband while attending school and they have made their home and are raising their family here.
We are missing our Camino friends that we made prior to Saria as it seems since we entered that city we’ve all been scattered and unable to connect with one another. This portion of the Camino has a different “feel” than the last 458 miles. It isn’t bad, it’s just we’re in a different place in our journey as opposed to those that have just begun. Those walking alongside us are not familiar to us. We haven’t built friendships through day after day of shared exhaustion, blisters, communal meals, triumph at reaching the top of a treacherous hill or relief of making it back down without stumbling. This last portion is days long versus weeks long.
It is similar to the time and energy we spend building our faith, our relationships with family and friends, or our careers. The more one has invested personal energy into something the more valuable it becomes.
Matthew 6:21 For where your treasure is, there your heart will be also.

August 6th, 2019

Today has been another challenging 16-mile hiking day but incredibly magical and miraculous. First and foremost we are giving thanks for our son’s 29th year of life. Elias is the first one to call us mommy and daddy. Together we have laughed, cried, celebrated milestones, consoled one another through losses, proudly witnessed his career path unfold, and in two short months we will witness him marry his best friend and soulmate, Kelli.
At our breakfast stop a fellow peregrino kept asking each one of us that took our seats if a walking stick he was holding belonged to us. One after another we each replied, “no.” When he finished his meal he left the walking stick in a corner near the bathroom. As we were finishing our breakfast another peregrino, who had just arrived, noticed the walking stick. She picked it up and immediately began asking, “Does this belong to any of you?” We explained to her that someone had already asked all of us that very question but it didn’t belong to any of us. A huge smile came across her face and she shared she had accidentally left hers at the last albergue and she was sure it was hers. We were even more surprised when she revealed that she had no intention of stopping at this particular bar for breakfast but she had to use the bathroom so the decision was made for her….the Camino provides.
We proceeded our hike and came upon a small stone hut. A sign outside read “Art’s Gallery.” Stepping inside was a like opening a storybook filled with brilliantly colored pages. The cozy couch and lavender aroma beckoned one to “be still and in the moment.” Each of the watercolors depicted scenes from the Camino. Each one pulled you into the spot it depicted and made you keenly aware of how it felt to be in that space. Art explained that he was a very broken man when he first walked the Camino in 2006. As he walked and upon reaching Santiago he knew something had changed and he felt a tinge of faith. After his return home he was restless and felt pulled back to the Camino. He proceeded to walk a second time. When he came upon this stone building in disrepair and for sale, he purchased it and has since renovated it into his home and studio. He relaid he felt incredibly at peace here and his faith grows day by day. He has discovered that faith is like a muscle, one must exercise and use it or it will atrophy and be of no service. I am in awe of his talent and curiously ask if he has created his own sello. We collect sellos (stamps) in our credencial at each place we stay, eat, visit, etc as proof that we have been on pilgrimage and must submit them to the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago to receive our Compostela (Certificate of Completion). Art advises that he does not have his own sello but that on a few occasions will draw something for someone in their credencial. I tell him I would be grateful if he would just write the name of his gallery and sign his name on mine. He blessed me with his incredible talent in a manner beyond what I expected. He shared his faith with me and I explained to him today was Elias’ birthday and that I had been praying over our son since my first footstep this morning. He asked if he too could take a moment to pray for him and we did. I almost left in tears. Check out artworkbyart.com
We continued on for several miles buoyed by an immense sense of peace. Just when weariness wants to creep in and create havoc, an oasis to rest and recharge appears seemingly out of no where. Terra de Luz is one of those; recognizing familiar faces already relaxing is an added bonus.
We entered Saria knowing this would be one of the busiest cities along the path. It is the starting point for pilgrims who are only able to take a limited time away from life’s responsibilities to complete the minimum 100km of the Camino in order to receive a Compostela. So many new faces. Their laughter echoes off the stone walls, they are wearing dust free clothing, and they are not limping! It is all so reminiscent of ourselves as we stepped off the train in St. Jean a little over a month ago. The streets and albergues are full. We opt to walk through to the edge of town as close to tomorrow’s starting point as possible. We encounter Albergue Monasterio de La Magdalena, a former monastery. To our great relief it is very clean and although our dorm room can easily sleep 48 there are only eight of us calling this home tonight.
We receive two special texts and photos tonight. Andrea and her dad, Salvador from Los Angeles and our adopted Camino son, AJ arrived in Santiago this afternoon. We are so excited for them. Their huge smiles show pure joy, tanned faces evidence of long days in the sun. A shop owner told us, “Ya mero estas en la puerta del catedral.” You’re almost at the door of the cathedral. Indeed, we are and we look forward to sharing the trail with so many new pilgrims.

August 3 – 5, 2019

What a difference a day of rest makes. We were up, packed, and on the trail by 6:30 a.m. – definitely not normal for us. We hiked six miles before breakfast, five miles before lunch, and rounded out the day with another five miles finally arriving in Villafranca del Bierzo. We have a difficult climb tomorrow so we want to choose a good place to rest tonight. Our typical method of choosing an albergue/hostel/casa rural/hotel is which advertisement we’ve seen on the trail that appeals to us the most; today wasn’t much different. One that kept drawing our attention was an albergue located on the river and as an added bonus was near our starting point for tomorrow. After walking through the length of the city and locating the albergue, the owner advises she is “completo” – no room at the inn. She does offer an option we cannot refuse. She and her family also own a hostel with private rooms. She offers a room that has a queen bed and bunks for the price of the queen room. Um, yes please. The Camino provides just what we need once again. The rhythmic chores of showers, laundry, rest and dinner soon follow.
Allow me to share a “discovery” moment. I like to visualize my prayers as having a ripple effect. Imagine a small stone dropped into a body of water that is smooth as glass. The one tiny, circular wave created by the stone entering the water grows exponentially becoming a large wheel of sorts. I like to think that when I name one person in prayer it is that stone being dropped into water, each person in their life will then be included as their name has now created a wave. On the up hills I prayed from A to Z naming all the women I know; on the downhills I repeated the process but naming the men. I have a lot of people that have blessed my life!
August 4th – Waking up to a text from our daughter that simply stated “Key and I are safe” was a bit unnerving. We had no idea what had happened in El Paso, Texas, or the extent of the heartache other families were experiencing that did not receive a text like ours. It was sobering.
With that sense of relief and an option to take a route alongside the road or a mountainous one. Guess which one Dora the Explorer chose? Although it is the longer option I must admit being away from the roadway and the views were well worth the extra effort. We didn’t see any other peregrinos until the trails rejoined. It can be a bit unnerving not seeing others on the trail; however spotting the painted yellow arrows on a rock or fence post is reassuring. We’ve been following those arrows for 400 miles.
August 5th – Third day in a row of challenging ascents and descents. We covered seven miles by 11 am and it was mostly steep inclines. We thought we had a reprieve but if the Camino has taught us anything, it is never a good idea to assume. We saw plenty of advertisements for horses available to make the trip easier and even evidence they had been on the trail but we didn’t get an opportunity to see anyone riding. What did amaze us was the number of cyclists on the rocky terrain instead of utilizing the roadway. They have more courage and power than the two of us. We traversed with great difficulty on our own power; I can’t begin to imagine the strength and balance required of attempting it on two wheels.
We have now entered our third and final region of Spain which is Galicia. It is not uncommon to see cows being herded through the tiny villages to their grazing fields in the morning and then returning in the evening. As you can imagine it can leave a smelly atmosphere in the air and on the community streets. Some villages are much better at keeping their streets clean after the morning bovine march than others. Our evening destination was not one of them. We didn’t even look for our albergue, we simply moved on to the next available village. We stumbled on another gem! Most bars/restaurants include a pilgrim’s meal which includes an appetizer (that could be a meal in itself), an entree, dessert and a bottle of wine for around $10 a person. We have enjoyed these meals as it serves as a great opportunity to taste local dishes and wines.
A funny observation – we all have developed this penguin walk when we initially raise ourselves out of a chair or resting spot. We are all so sore it’s quite obvious who the peregrinos are and who are the locals. Also, it is so wonderful to walk through villages and farming areas and hear the encouraging “Buen Camino” from everyone. The sense of community among ourselves and the beautiful people of this country hosting us is immeasurable. These are the moments…..

August 2, 2019

Today was rough. We were still emotionally spent from our time at Cruz de Ferro yesterday, I woke up really nauseous, and Vidal was really sore. While our morning descent was a short six miles it was very rocky and slippery with lots of shale. Each footstep was taken with great care as we’ve come too far to be reckless and hurt ourselves. One advantage to focusing on my footsteps was forgetting my stomach was upset.
We stopped for breakfast and just couldn’t shake the odd way we were feeling. We called it “done” after ten miles. Ponferrada was not our target city for this evening but we feel it’s best to rest and regroup.
After lunch we begin our search for a place to stay. We choose our albergue based on the recommendation of a hostel owner. We initially entered her establishment to inquire about a private room. She has none available but assures us we will not be disappointed with Albergue Guiana. She is correct. Each room has three bunks, its own shower, bathroom, and lockers. It is very clean and spacious. After showering and a nap we tour the Templar Castle. While having dinner we both realize we made the right decision when we stopped for the day. Our minds and bodies needed a reset. Tomorrow is another day. Tonight we’ll let the Lord refresh our spirit as we sleep. Be blessed y’all!

July 28 – August 1, 2019

Goodness, if someone had told me I would experience the range of emotions I have felt in the last five days I would have asked for a “do over” or a “skip over”. We had an amazing day and half in Leon. Thank you Joel and Josh for loving over us so fiercely. I do believe we not only rested well, we ate and drank our weight in tapas and vino tinto. Sunday mass at the cathedral followed by an open air market much like our beloved flea markets was definitely a blessing we didn’t deserve but gratefully appreciated. Our lunch spot was less than spectacular but the mariachi music made it special. Mom and dad were very close to our hearts.
I don’t know if it was the incredible rest or not feeling any pain in my feet for the first time in weeks but our first day back on the trail I was feeling especially recharged and took the lead with a 3mph pace. We reached Villar de Mazarife in record time. We chose Albergue Meson Tio Pepe solely in honor of my brother-in-law, Pepe Arrambide. Turns out, our private room in this albergue was another gem.
The following day was a long, arduous one and our pace slowed. We had our first disappointment in an albergue just outside of Astorga. The facility was not clean. If we hadn’t already hiked 17 miles and other options had been available in the tiny town, we would have left. Thankfully our fellow peregrinos were nice and we all made the best of our circumstances.
We arrived in Astorga the following morning in time for the first cathedral tour of the day. Another amazing experience rich in history and beauty. Three hours later and 15 miles of ground left to traverse for the day signaled it was time to end our exploration. Late afternoon as we entered the terrace area of Albergue Nuestra Senora de Pilar in Rabanal del Camino we hear a hearty, “Hello Texas!”. It’s Father Paul whom we didn’t think we would see again as we thought they were a full day ahead of us. He, Flor, Denise and Kelly are very early risers and we had last seen them in Leon. As customary, showers and admin duties are priority before dinner decisions. Tonight we opt to make a trip to the small market for cheese, bread, sausage and wine. We join the others at the table and enjoy sharing food and great conversation. Everyone has tomorrow’s hike on their mind as it will be both challenging and emotional. We will hike to Cruz de Ferro. Many of us have been carrying a stone or stones from home to place at the foot of the cross. It is a place to lay our burdens, speak prayers, pour out our thoughts, shed tears, give praise, and be still as so many before us.
The journey is just as has been described with an added incredible surprise. On our last stop before reaching the cross we encounter Joaquin. He is the young man from Denmark whose grandfather was an American war hero. We last saw him July 8th. He shares with us that he is behind his schedule as he became very ill and had to take five days of rest. We walk to the cross together along with Kelly who has joined us for this portion of the trail as her knees will not allow her to keep the pace of her group.
Our time spent at Cruz de Ferro is indeed emotional and many quiet moments of reflection are spent on the remainder of the hike.
We have chosen to stop in El Acebo to stay in a new albergue that boasts a large swimming pool. Vidal saw the advertisement for La Casa del Peregrino two days ago and has had his sights on it since then. It is indeed a lovely place. Our room has the capacity for eight but there are only three of us here. We learn one of the cafes in town is owned by a Texan so our dinner location is an easy one. I don’t know how we managed to not get this gentleman’s name but he is a retired accountant who obtained his teaching degree upon leaving his first field of work. He came to Spain to teach English ten years ago and never left. We forgive him for being a Longhorn after he shares a story of hosting a group of Aggies about a year ago. He said he never felt so homesick as he did watching them as they sang along to the Aggie War Hymn he played in their honor.
We are ten days away from Santiago. We can’t believe only 140 miles remain of 500. We give thanks we have remained healthy and have not had any injuries. Sore legs, blisters, and fatigue are friendly reminders of the enormity of the journey. We feel so blessed and ask for continued prayers.

July 26 – 27, 2019

We pushed a bit more than our standard 15-mile day on Thursday and Friday to make our way to Leon on Saturday an easy 10 miles. Friday was a particularly long day. After our now routine settling in, showering, and washing clothes (admin duties as Becca would say 😉) we went off to explore and decide where to have dinner. Mancilla de las Mulas is not a large community. After the second round through the streets the locals were looking at us like we were lost or crazy. By the third round I was in agreement with the latter. Fatigue and hunger after an 18-mile day makes one act in strange ways. I was in the midst of protest when Vidal spots Becca across the plaza. What a treat to see her again! She had not had dinner either and asked us to join her at her albergue for the pilgrim’s meal. She assures us we will not be disappointed as she is staying in a very small, family run location and they have a beautiful grapevine covered eating area. It is just as she describes and more. The vines growing overhead are filled with clusters of grapes that gently hang from its branches. The surrounding area has flower filled pots and antique decor. I believe tonight’s meal is the best one we’ve had thus far. Having run into Becca again has made this evening perfect. This time we make sure to exchange contact information.
Saturday was the first day we encountered the possibility of hiking in the drizzling rain. At our breakfast stop we noticed the clouds and discovered I had lost my hat somewhere along the first four miles. I was really disappointed. It isn’t an expensive hat; it holds sentimental value. Not only had it protected my head the last 300 miles, it is my fishing and flea market hat. As we lamented my loss Vidal offers to back track to look for it. This far into the Camino the word “backtrack” is the equivalent of cursing. We resort to having breakfast facing the trail allowing us to see the pilgrims coming in after us. In this way we can see if someone has found, picked up, and hopefully now carrying my hat on the outside of their pack. No such luck. We gather our things when we are done and travel a mere 1/4 of a mile when we spot a dark cloud moving in. We opt to stop again to perhaps allow the impending rain to pass. Third cup of coffee in less than an hour; heck yes! From where we are seated we can see pilgrims across the street covering their packs and putting on their rain gear in preparation. We spot two Korean women we’ve crossed paths with for several days. Not many words have been exchanged but plenty of smiles, waves, and greetings of “Buen Camino”. We initially encountered them when they were caring for their very blistered feet on the side of the path. We offered ointment, gauze, tape, and even calling them a taxi but they adamantly refused. In the days that followed we would ask how they were feeling; their smiles and less painful looking strides let us know they were healing. As they are passing I catch a glimpse of something beige hanging on the outside of one of their packs. I excitedly tell Vidal and he immediately runs across the street to confirm what I hope I’ve seen. Upon his return he has a solemn look on his face and I’m sad. He then grins and from behind his back produces my hat! The beauty of this story however is that about four days ago Vidal spotted a beautiful silk scarf on the trail. It had obviously been dropped by someone before us. I tied it to the back of his pack in hopes that we would find its owner at the next bar or small village. That day as we picked our breakfast spot we see our Korean friends. Vidal goes to them and simply turns his back to show the two women the scarf he has found. The joyous “oh, oh, thank you” being repeated over and over was proof enough of ownership. What are the odds that these same two women would be the ones to find my hat? That is a God thing and the Camino does provide. 💕
We don’t even mind walking in the drizzle as we are buoyed by the blessing that we’ve just received. We overtake six peregrinos. There is an older man with two men on each side of him sharing an umbrella and a women, also with two men on each side of her sharing an umbrella. Their pace is slow and steady. We decide on a third stop of the day for more cafe con leche. The group of six come in shortly after us. We learn from the elder gentleman that he is the patriarch of his family. He has walked the Camino several times and is unsure how long his health will allow him to do so and he has one last desire. That is, to walk a portion of the way with his grandsons. So his son, daughter-in-law, and two young adult grandsons have joined him. They will journey as far as their grandpa would like.
These are the moments that give meaning to our walk each day. Be blessed y’all!

July 25, 2019

You haven’t lived until you’ve heard Achy Breaky Heart in Castillian Spanish at 11:30 on a Wednesday night. 🙂 Not only do Spaniards take their siestas seriously, their fiestas are celebrated just as fiercely. The DJ cranked out the tunes from 11pm to 5am. Oh, and the volume? Let’s just say there will be many weary peregrinos on the trail tomorrow. 🤷‍♀️ Close the window and crank up the air conditioning to drown out the sound you say? Very few residences or businesses have air conditioning. Therefore, unless you want to suffocate, enjoy the experience and chalk it up to learning about another culture. It is all part of the journey.
We slept in this morning thanks to a restless night and left our albergue at 8 am. By Camino standards that is really late. We seem to be known for such as people keep asking Vidal if he was able to sleep until 7am. Yet, we continue to arrive at the same location and have communal dinner with the friends who tend to leave before daybreak. To each his own; that is the beauty of this pilgrimage. Everyone is doing it their way and for their own reasons.
Tonight after dinner with Camino friends we went outdoors to the patio area to enjoy a bottle of wine. As has been the case the last few weeks, conversations with others we’ve seen along the way but not interacted with for more than a few moments is easy and comfortable. We join Antonio and Gabriella from Brazil. I learn I’m not the only one on this journey that gets a bit crabby if I don’t get cafe con leche within the first five miles of the day and that being hangry after 12 miles is acceptable behavior. 😃
We are passed the halfway point and look forward to arriving in Leon on Saturday and taking a rest day on Sunday. Be Blessed Y’all!

July 22 – 24, 2019

The last three days have made us especially grateful to have been born and raised in Texas. The temperature is hovering in the low to mid 90’s by midday. While it is a bit uncomfortable it is bearable. Our Camino friends, particularly those from Ireland, Sweden, France, Spain, Japan, and Germany are having great difficulty. Many have begun leaving long before dawn to avoid the heat. Our tolerance has allowed us to take longer breaks, enjoy our breakfast and lunch stops, and keep a comfortable pace. We have enjoyed conversations with local farmers, shop owners, and even a lovely lady who was sitting just inside her doorway hand making lace. I marveled at her skill. She shrugged as she explained it was a way to pass the time and graciously showed me some of her handiwork.
As we walked through Castrojeriz looking for the casa rural that had been recommended to us by the podiatrist’s staff in Burgos we passed an open bar. I hear a gentleman say, “Alexa, play some 70’s music.” Maybe it was fatigue or perhaps the perfectly spoken English but I found it amusing. I said (to no one in particular), “Really, Alexa in Spain, in this tiny town?” Then came the reply, “Alexa? We invented Alexa!” I giggled, took a few steps back and waved. We locate the casa rural two doors down from the bar. We are unable to get an answer to our knocking on the door or our phone call. We decide to walk back to the bar for a couple of drinks and formulate Plan B. Vidal orders and the owner asks what made us return. He smiled and advises he has a private room available. We no longer have a need for an alternate plan. The saying goes, “the Camino provides”; I think God puts it into motion. 😉
We settle in and after exploring a bit we return to the bar for dinner. As we are eating, a dog walks in that has the same color markings as Moxie and looks like Zazu and quietly lays at Vidal’s feet. We just stare at one another. We have had our Moxie moments on the trail as we still grieve her loss so this unexpected moment takes us aback. I tell Vidal I think Moxie wants us to know she is okay.
The next day we journey towards Boadillla del Camino. A few miles from town we spot a large grove of trees where other peregrinos are taking a break and we join them. We spot a small dog going from one group of people to another. He isn’t barking or being a nuisance; he’s just greeting everyone and if he receives a snack he happily waves his tail in gratitude. He wanders off into the nearby wheat field and spots something of interest. He begins to hop like a kangaroo after his prey. Vidal turns to me and I already know what he’s going to say; Moxie used to do the same exact thing. We start back on the trail as we have a short three miles left to our destination. To our surprise, that same little dog is running in the same direction we are headed. He pauses for a moment to sniff each person he passes and even joyfully runs alongside the cyclists. We later learn he belongs to everyone and no one. We will always miss our Moxie girl.
The albergue we have chosen for the evening has a swimming pool and large garden area. The pilgrims dinner is wonderful. It included ternero guisado which closely resembles our carne guisada. The meat just melted in our mouth. Vidal asks the waiter for tortillas de arina; he scoffs and says meat this good needs no accompaniment, both laugh. The pool is great for soaking my feet; the cold water does not deter Vidal from diving in. We see many familiar faces but three that bring much joy are a Tawianese man, his mother and father. He shared with us several days ago that his mom walked The Camino over 40 years ago but was unable to complete the entire way. She is bound and determined to complete what she started so many years ago even though she is in her 70’s. If it were not for their son translating for us, our conversations would be very limited. Her huge smile and warm hug I receive need no interpretation. She demonstrates her love and I express my admiration.
We were so sad to learn that our first pick, Albergue Santa Maria in Carrion de los Condes was “completo”. I had chosen this one as the nuns in residence present a guitar led evening concert after the communal meal. Our friends from North Carolina, Father Paul, Flor, Kelly, and Denise spot us from their window seat where they are having a late lunch. Father Paul gives us the name of the albergue where they are staying and it turns out to be a really great one. We strike up a conversation with one of our roommates as we are all settling in and within five minutes decide after taking care of daily chores we are going to have dinner together.
Rebecca, we learn, is from London, England. She is a college student studying divinity in the Anglican faith with a goal of becoming a priest like her father and grandfather before her. She is delightful, engaging, and so full of the love of Jesus we know she will do great things in His name. Her sense of humor as she and Vidal banter is hysterical. She honored us by saying grace at dinner. Sadly, as fast as she walks; the likelihood we will see her again is minimal. However we know she was brought into our lives for a purpose.
These are the moments I know heaven must exist. Be blessed y’all!

July 20 – 21, 2019

I had read and been told the area we would be walking through the next week called the Meseta would be very flat, boring and hot. The last two days have been none of those. My toe is feeling great; however, I was really sad having to relinquish my old hiking boots for new ones. I had worn a hole through one of them and part of the problem I was having with my toe was due to not having enough space in the toe box. I was apprehensive of breaking in new hiking shoes knowing we had two 12-mile days ahead but it was completely unnecessary. We have started our days between 7:30 and 8:00 and reach our destination city around 1pm. We are now taking breaks every 4 or 5 miles. I can hear Shannon, one of my Y instructors say, “It’s not getting easier; you are getting stronger.” I’d like to think so; however, I will admit it’s a huge relief getting the backpacks off, showering, washing clothes, and relaxing at the end of each day. Dora the Explorer (Vidal) on the other hand has a crazy amount of reserve energy each evening and has had a great time discovering every inch of each city in which we stay. The sun doesn’t set until almost 10pm so he is in exploration heaven.
We have been staying in a mix of albergues where we sleep with many others and share meals, casa rurals that offer private rooms, and on rest days in hotels. We have enjoyed each of these experiences especially as pilgrims meals give us an opportunity to taste many foods of the region. Our favorite so far is paella. It would make a great camping meal and will be a must for our next party in the alley.
Please continue to hold us in thought and prayer just as we lift your names on the trail and in the churches we visit. Be blessed y’all!

July 19, 2019

Our only goal for our rest day in Burgos is to visit the cathedral. On our way to the plaza we pass a podiatrist’s office. A lady dressed in crisp scrubs is sweeping the sidewalk area just outside the entryway and she greets us with a warm, “Buenos Dias.” A few steps later Vidal is turning around making his way back to the doorway. He gives the lady a brief history of my toe issues and asks if she can see me. She listens intently then advises she will ask the doctor if I can be seen as a walk-in as she is the receptionist. I’m thinking there is no way we will be seen, how much will this cost and most importantly, will I be able to continue on the Camino. After speaking with the doctor, the receptionist advises us to have a seat as I will be the third patient of the day. We take our seats and continue visiting with the receptionist and the patient who will be seen before me. When both women learn we are walking the Camino they begin to give us names of albergues and casa rurals we should consider during our next four days as we traverse the Meseta. The first thing the doctor says when she sees my toe is, “You need to take a deep breath. There is no infection and you will be able to continue on.” I exhale a huge sigh of relief. Basically, I have a blister under my toenail. I need to continue the care I have been practicing with a few changes. She applies an antibiotic cream, covers with gauze, tapes it up and smiles. She prescribes the cream and tells us we can have it filled at any pharmacy. As we proceed to the check out area she sends us off with a hearty “Buen Camino.” We are expecting to be told we owe quite a bit and have prepared for it. Doctor’s visit $35, meds and gauze from pharmacy $5. That’s a blessing!
The cathedral is just as beautiful as we have been told. Our pictures do not do justice to the intricate work, nor could words fully describe the amount of history told in the carvings, paintings and relics. If this much beauty exists on earth, I cannot even begin to comprehend what heaven will reveal.
As we stroll through the plaza enjoying an artisan festival I hear my name being called. We turn around to see a group of ladies who are traveling with a priest we met about a week ago. The five ladies did not know each other before the Camino but they each know the priest through different connections. We met them in an unusual way. As we were going through a small village Vidal randomly began whistling the tune to The Andy Griffin Show. When he stopped to take a breath one lady in the group in front of us took over the tune where he left off. So began a fun conversation and a Camino friendship.
Later in the evening as we are having dinner at an outdoor patio I spot Tanya, the Canadian teacher we met the second day of our Camino. We affectionately call her “winged foot” as her pace is double that of ours. We last saw her two weeks ago. We figured with our rest days in Pamplona she was days ahead of us. She is surprised to hear her name being called and upon realizing it’s us, huge hugs are shared and we try to fill each other in on where we’ve been and how we are fairing.
This is exactly what has made this journey so special. Making connections with people you’ve known for such a short time is incredible. We don’t when or if we’ll see each other again but knowing that we are all taking the same steps to the same city is a treasure. Be blessed y’all!

July 17 – 18, 2019

We hope to take a rest day in Burgos on the 19th so the next couple of days mean we need to cover some meaningful ground. My mind and my toes aren’t always on the same page. I’ve learned my feet begin serious protesting at approximately the 14-mile mark and they completely balk at the 15-mile pedometer reading. As a result, Vidal and I have made an agreement; if I allow him to sleep until 7am we won’t walk further than 15 miles a day. This pact came about during one of our random conversations during the day. We’ve discovered that we leapfrog the same people who leave an hour before us each morning and even though they usually arrive at the next destination before us we have not failed to find a place to lay our heads at night and more often than not, we are all eating dinner together.
I hit the brakes at my my max mileage upon entering San Juan de Ortega so we stopped at a bar/cafe to regroup. We struck up a conversation with a gentleman who asked us where we were from when he heard us speaking English to each other shortly after having a conversation with the bar owner in Spanish. We learn his name is John, he is from Ireland and is traveling alone. He walked a portion of the Camino last year with his girlfriend and he just had to come back to traverse the sections he missed. He tells us the local hostel is really nice and has private rooms. Sold! My toe is feeling better than yesterday but it’s been another tough hiking day. We have about an hour before our communal dinner so we settle in quickly, take our showers, and enjoy a bit of quiet. We have seating assignments for dinner that are completely random and we know only that one other person will be at our table. To our surprise, it’s John who will be joining us. Our menu choices are chuletas de puerco (pork cutlets) con morcilla, chuletas de puerco con chorizo (sausage), or ensalada mixta. It’s the morcilla (sausages filled with blood that is cooked or dried and mixed with a filler until it’s thick enough to solidify when cooled) that gets a big “NO”. We had both taken a small bite of it a couple of nights ago and just couldn’t get passed the taste, color, or texture. John finds this amusing as he tells the waiter he likes it and will definitely have it. We are the last to leave the dinner table as we have enjoyed sharing stories and experiences of our lives. John assures us we will want to come back one day and walk another route of the Camino. He says it will get in our hearts and minds and we won’t be able to resist it. He says goodnight and closes the evening with, “Mark my words. Within one month of returning home you will say “the crazy Irish guy was right; we need to go back.” We wish him well as he is leaving early in the morning to walk his last day before he has to fly home and return to work.
Today is Burgos or bust! We want a full day’s rest on Friday so I’m mentally prepared for a long day. We grab breakfast at the first bar/cafe we encounter. This varies daily as some places don’t open until 8am so our first meal can be a mere few steps after we begin our day or it can be two or three miles down the road at the next city. We’ve learned to keep nuts, fruit, cheese, crackers, etc. stocked in our packs for this reason. Breakfasts here typically consist of coffee and/or juice, a pastry or toast and fruit. It’s a good pick me up and a great treat especially if we’ve had to work for it first. 😊 We plan our snack and lunch stops by the same method. We have been passing/being overtaken by a couple from Berlin for the last two days. They usually leave long before we do in the mornings. We had to laugh today as the gentleman asked Vidal if we run parts of the trail as they just don’t understand how we keep catching up to them. Um, that would be a huge “no”. We are slow and steady; the tortoise and the hare keep coming to mind.
Reaching the outskirts of Burgos is eerily reminiscent of arriving in Pamplona. The whole “you are here but not there” scenario is not fun when you’ve already trekked 12 miles. We locate our hotel and I glance at my Fitbit; 14.98 miles. We walk into our room and the bathtub is the first thing I see. I prefer showers but today…..I’m soaking in hot water, climbing into bed, and not moving another inch. Vidal on the other hand is recharged after his shower and out the door to go find us dinner. He reminds me so much of his dad. My father-in-law was always on the move whether working or seeking an adventure. His time was not wasted. I’m so blessed he instilled such a spirit in his son. Be blessed y’all!

July 15 – 16, 2019

I literally limped into Granon after a 15-mile day and my big toe on my right foot felt like it was on fire. Of course, the entry to every city has been a steep uphill, downhill, or staircase. Upon taking the final pair of steps we see a lovely courtyard and a food truck! The lemon flavored Aquarius was so refreshing and the owner was genuinely kind and concerned. We rested a bit then went in search of an albergue. The first one was “completo” or full. More walking ensued which turned out to be a huge blessing. Our second stop was at Casa Rural Jocobea. We had a private room and bath that rivaled any 5-star hotel. The owner was so gentle and warm hearted. He shared with us how this two-story home was once a grain and hay storage facility and a horse paddock. He and his wife have transformed it into a two-room casa rural for peregrinos and they live on the second floor. The walls are filled with antique farm tools and family photos giving it a cozy, welcoming feeling. A hot shower and change of clothes seems to clue the brain we need sustenance. We decide to return to the food truck. The owner immediately asks if I’m feeling better and if we’re hungry. Our answer must be written on our faces as he begins to laugh and says, “I’ll take care of you.” He offers samples of three local wines. After we choose our favorite he hands us two glasses and the bottle, tells us to go find a table in the shade, and he’ll bring out some patata and croissants. Breakfast for dinner and wine, interesting. It was delicious! Javi has such an engaging personality. He loves being of service to peregrinos and is eager to share the history of his hometown. The evening is made perfect as we were able to Facetime with our children. Hearing their voices and seeing their faces does so much to keep up our spirits, especially after a tough day.
Our host told us not to rush out in the morning (most albergues have an 8 am checkout) so we slept in a bit later than usual. The extra rest and a hearty breakfast made the 12-mile hike to Belorado a much better experience than yesterday’s. We choose to stay at Albergue Cuatro Cantones because it has a swimming pool. The yoga class before dinner was a huge bonus. There are 18 people in this room tonight and it doesn’t even faze me anymore to sleep among so many. Fatigue trumps all. I will say everyone has been respectful of each other’s space, belongings, and habits. It is usually quiet by 10:30 pm and only the occasional glow of cell phones can be seen before everyone is sound asleep. Staying humble and kind is key when sharing the Camino. Be blessed y’all!

July 14, 2019

Today was a delightful, cloudy 10-mile hike from Ventosa to Azofra. Our roommates last night were a father, daughter, and mom. They never actually spoke to us but lots of smiles and head nodding were exchanged. It’s amazing how genuine acts of kindness and cooperation can be expressed through a simple facial expression. They were in bed and asleep long before our 10 p.m. curfew and their 4:30 a.m. departure this morning was an indicator for that choice. They were in good company as I heard the two rooms next to us empty out as well. The current temperatures are a challenge for many peregrinos.

Random Camino thoughts……

Vidal picks up his pace on ascends; how weird. 🙃

Can a human really drink this much water?

You can feel a connection with someone after meeting them only once without having exchanged nothing more than a wave and a smile.

Taking the time to speak to the locals in each town is important. They are hidden gems. The history they share of their lives and hometowns cannot be found in a guidebook or Google.

Asking the cafe owner/bartender to serve you what ever their favorite regional food and coffee/wine/beer is on the menu is a delight to the taste buds. Oh my goodness…..yummm.

I really like the practice of siesta. 🤷‍♀️

We have lost count of the number of times we’ve been asked what part of Mexico we’re from before learning we are American followed by “Are you from the part of Texas that belongs to Mexico or the part of Texas that belongs to Texas?”

I regret not having enough confidence in my Tejano dialect to teach our children to speak Spanish. It has served us well communicating with fellow peregrinos and locals alike.

The look of surprise several people have expressed when learning Vidal is retired has taken us aback. They just cannot comprehend how he managed to do so at such a young age.

We could learn a great deal about water and electric conservation from albergue owners. We really don’t need 20-minute hot showers and every light on in the house.

A simple picnic of bocadillos (sub like sandwich) and water with great company rivals a steak dinner at a five-star restaurant any time.

An ice cold foot pool at the end of the day is ah ma zing. Oh, and advil helps too.

Aquarius (Gatorade like drink) and cornuts have become lifesavers in the heat of the day.

We are so much stonger than we think.

Walking by faith, not by sight is essential. The mileage markers on the trail and guidebooks are not always accurate.

Please define “rolling hills.”

Snoring in shared sleeping quarters hasn’t been as bad as I had read. 30 years of sleeping with a grizzly bear has its privileges. 😊

I love having random conversations or no conversation at all with Vidal as we trek along mile after mile.

We are beyond blessed to be here but sure do miss our family and friends. Please continue to cover us in prayer as you are lifted in ours in each step we take. Be blessed y’all!

July 11 – 13, 2019

Stopping short of Villa de Monjardin the day before made for a 14-mile trek on another hot day with long stretches of little to no shade and ample time to let the mind wander. I usually follow my husband on these narrow pathways, sometimes just a few paces behind and at other times he has a 10 to 20-foot lead. We’ve settled into this pattern and it is comforting to me. Just as he has led me and our family the last 30 years I trust his leadership on this trek as well. Under his guidance we’ve been protected and our needs have been provided. I don’t fear the path before me nor am I concerned of being misled as I know a warning and/or direction will come if needed.
Each step is a petition for, in gratitude of, or praise lifted in the name of each of you. On the tough up hills though, I will admit my focus narrows and I resort to my faithful mantra, “Elias, Andie, Key, Kelli, Vidal and I” (the names of our children, their spouses, and my husband) spoken in cadence to my steps until the peak is reached.
Three arduous 14-mile hiking days under what we affectionately refer to as “Texas hot” days lead us into Logrono. This is the largest city we’ve entered since leaving Pamplona and Vidal decides to treat us with a night in a hotel. We also want to take in the tapas tour on Calle Laurel. A large group of educator friends from Barcelona tell us it’s a must do experience. This group of twelve friends plan a week vacation together each year and walk sections of the Camino.
Our hats off to the group of six young adults who are running all the downhills. I pray your enthusiasm for life remains with you into the future; I think y’all are going to do great things.
To the family of four from California, the father and his two young boys from Madrid, and the father and son duo from Barcelona – it is so beautiful to see your love in action.
To the many women we’ve encountered traveling solo; your courage inspires me.
So many people, so many amazing stories, each has enriched our experience and our memories continue growing.
Today is the 4th anniversary of my dad’s death and I thought about him a lot on our journey. I must say the cloudy skies sure made today’s 12-mile hike pleasant. So, I count it as a gift from him watching out for Vidal and I just as he did to the best of his ability when he was alive. Be blessed y’all!

July 8 – 11, 2019

We got a really late start leaving Pamplona as we tried to resolve some banking issues and load up on foot care supplies before leaving the city limits. It’s good to feel our backpacks against our bodies again. They have become familiar, a comfort, knowing everything you need is contained in that one piece of equipment. Well, that and our hiking poles; can’t tell you how many times they have assisted on the climbs and saved us from some nasty falls on the descents. The joke has become “define rolling hills ” as we discuss what the day’s hike will entail. The climb to Alto de Perdon held its own challenges as we retrain our bodies after three days rest. After an uphill there is always a downhill and they always seem to be never ending. 12 1/2 miles later we entered Uterga. We agreed it was time to take a break and decide whether to continue on or call it a day. Our decision was made for us. As we walked into the patio area of the first albergue/bar area we encountered we hear someone calling our name. It is Mary from California. We met her only briefly while having dinner our very first night in St. Jean. We haven’t seen her in a week and we have lots to catch up on. This time during our communal dinner we learn she is an international educator. She has taught in Tokyo, Taiwan, and Germany to name a few. She decided to become a teacher at the age of 50 after retiring from her first profession as an analyst. Here she is as a 60-year-old solo traveler, as she stated because she decided she wanted to take a “walking summer vacation”. What a spirit!
Onward to Lorca, or that was to be the day’s plan. The day offered its challenges once again proving why this is a pilgrimage of mind, body, and soul. By the time we reached Cirauqui I was completely okay not reaching our target city which was an additional three miles away. Not having reservations has allowed for tremendous flexibility and we have had no problem finding a place of refuge each evening.
Trekking to Villa de Monjardin will be a bit longer since we cut our day short the day previous. My husband is looking forward to the Irache wine fountain. At our snail’s pace I’m not certain it will still be flowing when we get there. I shouldn’t have worried; he was able to fill a glass…or two. We’re four miles shy of our target city but mileage, fatigue, and heat are wearing me down. We arrive in Azqueta, just a mile to go. As we near the end of the city I see a tiny albergue and declare “I’m done”. My husband looks at me incredulously and says, “Really? We’ve just got one more mile.” Nope, I’m done, not taking a step further, taking my boots off right here, done. What a delightful place La Perla Negra and our host Helena are to us. She brings us slices of watermelon as we settle in. Dinner is a joy to the palette and the company even better. We recognize a young man we’ve seen on the Camino but have not spoken to before. He remembers us as well. His name is Joaquin and he is from Denmark. He just graduated high school and is taking the next year to travel before beginning college to study law. He is brilliant, curious about the world around him, and has a deep love for war history. He explains his grandfather is/was an American war veteran who served in Korea and Vietnam. While he only visited his grandfather yearly he always felt a deep connection with him. Joaquin tells us his bond was strengthened over the years as he and his grandfather corresponded by written letters only. He hopes to be the kind of man his grandfather emulated.
Hiking with a purpose, it’s the truths that slowly reveal themselves as one step follows another. Each day is a challenge to push ourselves through the foot pain, body fatigue, and heat. All the while remembering to take in the beautiful countryside that surrounds us, the history rich cities we traverse through, and the sheer privilege of being called a peregrino. Be blessed y’all!

July 5 – 7, 2019

The hike to Pamplona has been the most exhausting one to date. We passed on the pilgrim’s breakfast thinking an earlier start would help us get more miles behind us and an earlier arrival time. We planned to have breakfast at the first cafe we encountered. Three tiny cities and four hours later we finally had breakfast. Our pace continues to be slow and rhythmic with foot care and rest breaks taking priority over speed.
Relief stepping into Pamplona’s city limits was short lived. It was a case of “you’re here but not there” scenarios; turns out our AirBnB was located another mile into the city center. Ann joined us on today’s hike also and that final 5K was brutal on her hip. Upon arrival at our place of refuge for the next two nights we discover her hotel room is on the complete opposite side of town. Our host didn’t skip a beat; a taxi was out front waiting for Ann in less than five minutes. Settled in, showers taken, preparing for a nap when we receive a text that had us hopping out of bed and out the door in no time. Salvador and Andrea are not staying for the festivities tomorrow and would like for us to join them for dinner. We meet at the Plaza Ayuntamiento (City Hall) for tapas and sangria. The air is filled with lively conversations of many languages yet laughter is universal. We say our goodbyes as we will most likely, once again, not see another set of friends again on the trail.
An early morning start by happenstance finds us right in the middle of the plaza where the Chumpanaza (opening ceremonies for the Fiesta de San Fermin) will take place at noon. There is a crowd gathering but little did we know how just how crowded and crazy the atmosphere would become before the firing of the rocket at noon signaling the start of eight days of celebration. Let’s sum it up by saying you must be okay with a mass of people in your personal space and not keeping your traditional white and red attire clean. Google “Chumpinazo San Fermin 2019” if interested. 😊
That was an incredibly wild experience and we are still a bit amazed we experienced it. The Basque influence is evident and worth exploring. https://theculturetrip.com/…/10-things-you-didnt-know-abou…/
The remainder of the day is filled with tasting new foods, exploring historical sites, and walking the route of tomorrow’s encierro or running of the bulls.
Another super early morning for us as participants who want to run with the bulls had to check in no later than 7 am. It was a mad house as we tried to make our way in to the proper area and formulate a plan for a meeting place after the less than two minute run. As we’ve discovered on this journey, no matter how well organized we think we are, things change quickly. The huge crowds and barricaded streets made our reunion at the meeting place a difficult and tense one. However, the huge grin on his face made me sigh with relief; he had survived, unscathed. He said it was a huge adrenaline rush and could satisfactorily mark it off his bucket list. Just so we wouldn’t forget what a small world we live in; he initially lined up next to a police officer from Missouri who had participated last year also, what are the odds of teaming up with a fellow American? Our rest days in Pamplona closed on a high note. Be Blessed Y’all!

July 3 – 5, 2019

The staccato rhythm of many wake up alarms signals the start of our day. Today promises to be quite challenging as we will continue our climb over the Pyrenees.
Gia, a fellow peregrina and I jokingly let my husband know he won the snoring contest last night. He and her brother, AJ competed in a symphonic contest the night before. They are on pilgrimage to celebrate AJ’s graduation from the University of Denver. Their father’s profession has dictated an upbringing of living and traveling the world. A humble spirit veils their expansive level of education and diverse experiences. They have become our Camino Kids.
After breakfast we begin trickling out onto the path before us. Thick fog conceals views of the valley below; yet provides for comfortable hiking. Just as yesterday, we continue our practice of frequent stops for my foot care regimen. We are easily proving why we have our Slow Strollers on the Camino turtle patch on our backpacks. We are the last of our group to arrive at the albergue in Roncesevalles. Our accommodations exceed our expectations for the third time. This albergue with its capacity of 183 beds is run like a well oiled machine. Our dinner assignment is at a table of eight. Two brothers, their sister and her husband from Ireland and a father/daughter duo from Los Angeles. We had met Peter and his siblings on the day’s hike. He couldn’t remember our names as we leap-frogged one another along the way so he called us the Longhorn Texans. Salvador brought his daughter, Andrea on this journey to celebrate her college graduation. They invite us to join them for the pilgrim’s mass and church tour after the completion of our meal. It was the perfect way to end our day.
Our breakfast assignment includes new faces and Ann from San Francisco who is traveling solo. We have not seen her since yesterday morning.
She relays her struggle climbing up and down the mountain yesterday; her arthritic hips had her dragging in with every last bit of effort she could muster. She will walk with us today. I have discovered my obsessive foot care slows our pace to a crawl. I’m grateful for my husband’s patience; he is relieved I haven’t suffered blisters or unbearable pain. This rhythm gives us time to take in our surroundings, have time for reflection, and engage in great conversations. We learn Ann is a retired engineer. She too is well traveled and has a passion for hiking. We quickly realize we’ve missed a lot of the world in our travels. That’s what bucket lists are for, right? 😊 Just as I’m quietly lamenting how I wish I had the knowledge of so many we are meeting, Ann humbles me with her words and renews my view of my biggest blessing. She tells us that since she met us three days ago it is obvious in our interaction that we enjoy doing things together and our love for each other and our family is important. I think I floated into Zubiri. My sore feet, bruised knee (only I could stumble on gravel five feet from the end of the last trail of the day) and weary body tell a different story. Salvador and Andrea join us for dinner of vino tinto and tapas. We decide to take one last stroll before calling it a night and happen to run into our hospilatera whom we befriended at check in and she gives us an impromptu tour of her city. Neat way to end day three.
Tomorrow we will arrive in Pamplona. The Festival of San Fermin, or Running of the Bulls begins Saturday. We know with the chaos of festivities and mass amounts of people it is unlikely we will see our new friends again; we are staying for three days, most are continuing on. We say our goodbyes, prepare for another long hiking day and begin putting one foot before the other. Be blessed y’all!

July 2, 2019

Our first few Camino steps taken this morning included some backtracking when we realized we had left something behind in the albergue. Thankfully, it was only a detour of less than five minutes. The uphill trek to Orrison began almost immediately. I’ve been very meticulous with my foot care as I know I must show my arthritic toes and ankles lots of love if I expect them to carry me through to the end. Therefore, we were taking breaks every 30 minutes or so; more often than that to catch my breath. My backpack weight feels great and my feet are content.
Heavy fog has deterred us from taking in the view of the valley we are leaving behind but it provides very comfortable conditions for the effort being extended. Our late morning arrival at Refuge Orrison allows for hot showers, laundry chores, and a nap before dinner. Communal dinners are quickly becoming a favorite for us. The sharing of meals and our family histories opens our minds to a greater understanding of the world. We sit alongside world travelers of every age. Our purposes for being here are as varied as the origins of our home countries. Be blessed y’all!

June 30 – July 1, 2019

Most, if not all, of our fellow peregrinos we met on the train Sunday (June 30th) began their Camino this morning. St. Jean Pied de Port is a history filled old town. We walked the streets taking in the city’s history and historical sights. A must stop was the Notre Dame church where we prayed for protection over our pilgrimage. We experienced our very first night in an albergue and it was a great experience. We were on the second floor of the Gîte Le Chemin vers l’Etoile. The rooms are very small containing only a set of bunks per divided space. They are just a bit wider than my husband’s arm span and not much deeper. A small curtain provides sufficient privacy. It is very clean which is a huge plus. This floor has an occupancy of sixteen but there are only four of us here. We ordered the first of many “peregrino meals.” This consists of soup or salad, an entree, dessert and wine. It was delicious.
The evening closed as we sat on the patio enjoying the company of a new friend. A young woman named Patty from Philadelphia who is an archeologist with fascinating stories to share of her work, her love of Jeeping, and as she described it, her second job so she feels like a normal member of society. She co-owns a bookstore with her sister who just recently became a published author. As if her life wasn’t interesting enough, she and her sister mix and bag their own tea blends to serve to their customers and for special occasions. She had made a special blend just for her Camino influenced by the various regions we will be crossing. She graciously shared a few bags with us.
Monday morning we were delighted to find a huge market where our pallets were expanded with paella, sheep cheeses, and sweets.
Tonight we are staying at Albergue Beilari. Our evening here was the perfect way to begin preparing ourselves for the journey before us. Our hospilatero, Joseph opened our dinner time with a a few games to get us to know one another and to challenge us to give a title to the book we hope to write in our hearts as we walk. We are of many languages, cultures, and beliefs; however, none of it served as a barrier this evening. We were breaking break as one body – the human race. Be blessed y’all!

June 29, 2019

Saturday was our last full day in Paris. Daylight breaking at 5 am and nightfall delaying its appearance until after 10 pm makes for ample time to explore while the sun provides its light.
Friday had us out the door and on the train by 7 am. We returned to our room twelve hours later contentedly exhausted. We were left with a desire to see the night lights and needed to wash laundry so we delayed our Saturday departure into the belly of the metro system until almost noon.
Of course, our host asking us to join her for breakfast and offering her washer and dryer for our use made the choice an easy one.
The bus and rail system are a well oiled machine we imagine. We can’t verify that as we never seemed to depart or arrive from the same location more than once. We did learn to pack our patience and accept the fact that getting lost was part of the adventure. If we worked together we could eventually figure out the directional maps and determine what side of the street or track was the correct one. We quickly discovered we also had to keep a sense of humor. Multitudes of choices needing to be made in a quick and efficient manner by tourists (yes, us) who impede the flow of traffic for locales can be maddening at best, frustrating at worst. Adopting a “there is more than one way to get there” attitude and accepting that walking long distances will be a part of the plan makes for a much better day.
We leave this great city seven days after our arrival. It is impossible to see and do everything in this time span but we’ve been blessed by the experience. The sights we’ve seen and the people we have met have been added to our treasure of memories. Our Sunday morning metro train ride will be extended with a regional rail ride to St. Jean Pied de Port where we will begin our Camino on Tuesday.
Be blessed y’all!

June 25 – 27, 2019

Wednesday’s sunrise greeted us at a pleasant 60° with heavy fog and light mist. We would later discover the significance of this weather in relation to our day’s activity.
Our group of 15 would get to know each other throughout this day touring the Beaches of Normandy. We include an eighth-grade history teacher and self proclaimed nerd from Houston who will also be running with the bulls in Pamplona. A family of four from California who’ve waited for their youngest son to turn 10 to begin traveling internationally to expose and teach them history and cultures of the world. A father and son from Utah enjoying vacationing together. The couple that will leave the most impression on us are from Colorado. She is wearing her father’s dog tags and a Saint Christopher medal her grandmother gave each of her five sons as they went off to serve our country. She will sign the wall of a bar here as only veterans and their family are allowed to do so. She will stand on the very beach her fathered stepped upon and as we learn from our guide, under almost the same gale force winds, heavy fog, and misty conditions we are experiencing. Her emotions spilled onto her face; the significance of this moment was not lost on any of us.
Our Thursday return trip to Paris thankfully did not include the diversions of two days ago. We sat across twin sisters who have spent the last year volunteering with UNESCO; one in France the other in Italy before they begin attending college. They met in Normandy to travel home together to Germany. I was so impressed with their courage and selflessness.
Today, Friday, is a completely spontaneous walking tour of Paris. We have no plans or reservations anywhere. We just want to lose ourselves in the city and see what we discover.
Random lessons…..the French love their cigarettes, cheese, cured meats, wine, and fresh bread of every type imaginable.
They are friendly and engaging when you demonstrate even a modicum of humility and attempt to communicate in French no matter how miserable the attempt. I love meeting people and learning new things. Please always open your heart and mind to new experiences and people. The gifts you will receive and often impart will leave you with amazing memories. Be blessed y’all!

June 23, 2019

On Sunday morning we embarked on a week-long journey that if God allows, will evolve into a 40-day pilgrimage. Many peregrinos have left their footprints on this ancient pilgrimage route known as Camino de Santiago, including dear friends. A brief account of this historical trek can be found here. https://theculturetrip.com/…/a-brief-history-of-the-camino…/
I will document our experience as we sojourn this pathway beginning next Sunday.
However, a few lessons have been gained before our hike has even begun. In the days leading to our early morning departure we had been in a frenzy completing upholstery work. Long days and late night installations were leaving us depleted. I was also compulsively cleaning, de cluttering, and reorganizing the house and yard. I do this every time we are leaving home for an extended period of time. It’s quirky, I know. Particular to this adventure is that all our clothing and necessities required for this trip would have to fit in our backpacks. We’ve been instructed that we will quickly learn we truly do not need as much “stuff” as we think. There are a multitude of opinions and schools of thought on this subject and it can be debated as long as the sun rises and sets. With that in mind, we chose to pack our belongings in our packs and important documents in a neck pouch.
Off we go……
But wait, God had a few humbling moments in store for us. With little sleep the first of two flights had us at DFW airport by 7:30 am. A hop to Chicago followed by a 5-hour layover should have been ample time to prepare me for the 8-hour overnight flight to Paris. It did not. Sleeping in an airport or on a plane is a skill I obviously do not possess. My husband, on the other hand, merely leaned back, closed his eyes and was enjoying his own siesta whenever the opportunity arose. Our travel time from the airport in Paris to our room in Fonteny sous Bois should have been an uneventful one. We plan, God laughs. Locating train stations, buying correct tickets, and navigating bus systems in an unfamiliar city where English is not the dominant language is very interesting. However, a humble and kind attitude, big smile, and patience served us well. 24 hours had passed with little recharge of mind and body. Our spirits, however were given a much needed boost by the generosity and kindness of several locals who assisted us in our confusion. A warm welcome by our hosts allowed us to take a deep breath and relax. We had reached our destination for the day and we were safe. Always remain humble and kind; you have no idea how this simple gesture will impact those around you. Be blessed y’all!